AMERICAN FASHION IN CRISIS? NOT AT THESE SHOWS
4 min
In the 1990s, New York fashion had the Big Three: Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Of them, only Lauren remains a fashion force. Klein’s brand now only calls to mind Jeremy Allen White in boxer briefs. A recent reboot of the Donna Karan brand, sans Donna, drew yawns. In their heydays, these designers set the fashion agenda for the United States, and to some extent, the world. But in recent years, many have bemoaned the state of American fashion and wondered whether its fashion week should even exist.
Crisis of confidence no more! This past week, several New York designers made compelling cases for a new era in American fashion, one ruled more by a rigorous approach to separates than splashy marketing campaigns. As the luxury industry slows its roll , designers here showed the value of playing it safe, with investment-worthy coats, work-appropriate tailoring and go-everywhere dresses. Of course, in fashion, “safe” might also include sans-pants looks and four-figure shearling coats, many of which were also on display.
“I thought it was a really strong season for New York,” said independent fashion critic Jeremy Lewis. After years of streetwear, irony and everyone wanting to be “extra,” he said, “It’s led to more sober and grown-up clothes.” Lewis, like many of the commentators and retailers I spoke to, named Proenza Schouler as a standout. He said that its “exquisite tailoring” was “relevant to a daily, city-centric wardrobe.”
The new energy around realistic wardrobing was visible in many collections, from downtown darlings Eckhaus Latta and Kallmeyer all the way up to megabrand Michael Kors. On fashion runways, it’s more common than one would think to see unzipped zippers, nipple slips and faulty shoes (or abandoned shoes, which happened at at least two shows). The most successful designers working in New York today—highlighted below—are the ones that are focusing on fit, integrity and a connection to their customer.
Altuzarra’s Calculated Whimsy
For his 15th-anniversary show, Joseph Altuzarra revealed his strongest collection perhaps ever by zeroing in on idiosyncrasy and eschewing influencer culture. To a room of about 100 editors and buyers, he presented unique looks with notes of equestrian culture, harlequin-inspired whimsy and Princess Diana polished quirk. Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, who styled the collection, said that it “felt like the kind of wardrobe we dream to collect over years of our lives.” That mix looks like: a pair of jodhpurs found in an attic; a sweater from Portobello Road; wool joggers stolen from an ex-boyfriend.
“People’s wardrobes are not merchandised,” Altuzarra explained about this way of dressing. “When you walk into your closet, there’s this feeling of eclecticism.” He wanted to emphasize that one-of-a-kind feeling. It’s creating a wardrobe, he said—not of basics but of “preciousness and emotion.”
It’s a strategy that could have a positive effect on the brand’s business, as fashion becomes, in Altuzarra’s words, “more item-driven.” Rather than offering an overwhelming array of options, he said, “I want there to be a unique proposition.”
Proenza Schouler’s No-Nonsense Manifesto
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have always made clothes for the women of their own generation, with muses including artist Olympia Scarry, entrepreneur Lauren Santo Domingo and creative director Jen Brill. They’ve followed these women from their it-bag and party-dress days into their 40s . Today, those muses (like many of us) are far more likely to require a bag that holds a computer and a warm coat they can wear for 10 years than a pair of super-high boots to pose in.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear for retailer MatchesFashion.com, has told me how crucial coats are to the women’s designer business these days. A good coat can last forever. You can throw it over a simple WFH outfit. It keeps you warm in today’s weird, ever-changing weather. Proenza Schouler’s coats, in hand-sheared shearling, leather and double-face cashmere, are superlative. Hernandez and McCollough describe them as “strong and soft layers of protection.” Which you will certainly need if you decide to try one of the brand’s more risqué sheer-organza tops.
Willy Chavarria’s Character-Driven Separates
Willy Chavarria, who cut his teeth at legendary American brands Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, presented a sprawling show, including a short film and staged banquet recalling “The Last Supper,” in a warehouse in Brooklyn. Although his work is categorised as menswear, the show featured models of all genders, and a diverse range of backgrounds. The signature look—broad-shouldered blazers with nipped-ankle pants—would truly work on anyone.
While Chavarria’s collections have veered costumey in the past, this one struck a more wearable note. In his second season of wholesaling the brand, he said he was happily becoming more commercial. His cable-knit sweaters, camel suiting and aviator leather jackets are positioning him as a new-gen Ralph Lauren.
Michael Kors’s Pitch-Perfect Restraint
Although Kors sometimes gets a bad rap for being too commercial, his recent collections have had a smidge of an edge. Much in the same way that Tory Burch has recently gone from safe to cool, Kors is primed to reach a new audience with his canny sampling of 1990s and early 2000s minimalism. Unlike many of the designers that are mining that pared-back period, Kors was actually designing clothes back then. His work for Celine during that period , including straight knee-length skirts, animal prints and simple coats, is finding new lift on the resale market among younger women. undefined undefined So he’s smart to go full Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy for his eponymous multi-billion-dollar business. Shown in the old Barneys building in Chelsea, a temple of bygone chic, his dark skirt suits, pleated trousers and lace slip dresses felt convincing. And 50-year-old supermodel Amber Valletta, bare-legged with a leopard-printed coat and black pumps, is a contender for look of the season.
Sergio Hudson’s Unapologetic Power Dressing
As the Lox’s 1990s rap anthem “Money, Power & Respect” boomed from the loudspeaker, Sergio Hudson’s boardroom babes strutted defiantly down the runway. Hudson, a favorite of Kamala Harris and Michelle Obama, has built a solid reputation on monochromatic dresses and 1970s-inflected suiting. Hudson said that his vision was about presenting “that boss diva that we aim to please.”
This collection, Hudson’s most cohesive in recent memory, made me think that the fashion world hasn’t been taking Hudson seriously enough. Tom Ford, vulnerable after Peter Hawkings’s derivative debut last season, might do well to pay attention to Hudson, with his strong tailoring and unabashed sensuality.
The designer, who had attendees smiling and bopping in their seats, said that he aimed to “bring back the joy of New York fashion week.” And what’s more, “to bring back the great days when New York sportswear was held in high regard across the world. That’s been a bit lost.”
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Chris Dixon, a partner who led the charge, says he has a ‘very long-term horizon’
Americans now think they need at least $1.25 million for retirement, a 20% increase from a year ago, according to a survey by Northwestern Mutual
This agreement aims to foster the development of robust partnerships between the communities of both regions.
4 min
The Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry has recently signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with the Dubai Chambers, marking a significant step towards enhancing cooperation and strengthening economic and trade relations between Dubai and Australia. This strategic agreement aims to foster the development of robust partnerships between the business communities in both regions.
In today’s interview, we will delve with Mr. Lyall Gorman, Vice President of the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, into the objectives and anticipated impacts of this MoU, explore the key initiatives and projects that will arise from this collaboration, and discuss the potential challenges and strategies for overcoming them.
We will also look into how this agreement aligns with the broader strategic goals of the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry and the future of trade relations between Australia and the Middle East.
Can you give us a brief overview of the MoU signed with the Dubai Chamber? What are the main objectives?
The MoU we signed is designed for the two chambers to collaborate for mutual benefit and interest, focusing on business-to-business interactions. We are currently exploring opportunities around delegations, information sharing, trade, commerce, and e-commerce. The main goal is to bring businesses together in a structured manner to share ideas and encourage positive outcomes.
This partnership aims to increase the understanding of each other’s economies, recognize opportunities in each other’s regions, and work together to create mutual benefits. By doing that, we hope to enhance the economic ties between Dubai and Australia, leveraging each other’s strengths to create a more dynamic and prosperous business environment.
How do you see this MoU impacting trade relations between Australia and Dubai in the short and long term?
In the short term, we are expecting to generate a significant increase in awareness. By sharing information, data, and demographic insights, we will gain a better understanding of each other’s economic environments. This will help us identify existing opportunities for collaboration and potential mutual investment. From a trade perspective, we anticipate increased exports from Australia to Dubai and vice versa. This could include areas such as disruptive technology, medical research, education, construction, and agriculture—sectors that are currently emerging and critical.
In the long term, this enhanced understanding and collaboration will allow us to identify and capitalize on more opportunities. It’s about recognizing what’s happening in each other’s regions, understanding potential opportunities, and working together to create economic value. By fostering a deeper economic connection, we aim to create sustainable growth and mutual benefits over time.
What sectors or industries do you see as the primary beneficiaries of this partnership?
There are several mutual opportunities we aim to explore. Dubai has evolved incredibly over the last 20 years, achieving remarkable growth. However, there are still areas where further cooperation can drive growth. Some of the key initiatives will focus on sectors such as AI, digital disruptive technologies, smart technologies, financial services, education, construction, and advanced technologies.
Australia is highly regarded for its building codes and manufacturing capacity, especially in the construction sector. Additionally, I believe food security presents an interesting opportunity. As a major exporter of meat and other food products, Australia can contribute significantly to food security discussions, which is particularly relevant for Dubai.
Education is another area with significant potential for collaboration. By exploring these sectors, we aim to implement projects that not only address current challenges but also pave the way for sustainable development and innovative solutions in both regions.
What challenges do you foresee in the implementation of this MoU, and how do you plan to address them?
The cultural differences can impact how business is conducted, and this requires careful navigation. To address this, we need open and transparent communication, fostering a spirit of collaboration and mutual respect. It’s essential to have a genuine desire to embrace each other’s cultural differences and find common ground.
Another potential challenge is ensuring that both sides fully understand and adapt to each other’s regulatory environments and market dynamics. Dubai has matured significantly into a global business and corporate hub, which helps, but there are still differences to consider.
By prioritizing understanding and respect, and committing to ongoing learning from each other, we can effectively manage these challenges. Working together in a considerate and respectful manner will be crucial in overcoming any hurdles that may arise during the implementation of this MoU.
How does this MoU align with ACCI’s broader strategic goals for international trade and collaboration?
This MoU aligns closely with ACCI’s broader strategic goals by emphasizing the importance of fostering and diversifying economic partnerships on a global basis. The current global geopolitical situation has underscored the need for diversifying our supply chains and business relationships.
From an Australian perspective, the lessons learned during the COVID-19 pandemic and the evolving geopolitical environment have further highlighted the necessity of expanding our economic partnerships.
The Middle East, including the GCC, are regions where Australia already has strong relationships that can be further strengthened. Therefore, by working together, collaborating, and sharing knowledge and forward-thinking ideas, this MoU will help us identify and shape initiatives that add value and align with our strategic goals for international trade and collaboration.
How do you envision the future of trade relations between Australia and the Middle
I believe it will become stronger, more robust, and more regular, all for mutual benefit. There is a genuine willingness between both regions to grow and expand this relationship through a partnership model rather than a transactional one. This approach involves setting short, medium, and long-term goals, fostering a thriving and enduring relationship.
We have already established a strong partnership with Dubai Chambers and maintain a good relationship with the Dubai International Chamber here in Australia, led by Sophia Demetriades Toftdahl. This aligns with our strategic goal of global diversification in business.
Additionally, we recently signed an MoU with the Qatar Chamber and are about to sign with the Abu Dhabi Chamber as well.
Engaging with Saudi Arabia also makes sense, as it is a significantly emerging country. The last few years under new leadership have brought clarity to its economic, political, and social future and a strong passion and drive to become a major player in the region and global stage
Chris Dixon, a partner who led the charge, says he has a ‘very long-term horizon’
Americans now think they need at least $1.25 million for retirement, a 20% increase from a year ago, according to a survey by Northwestern Mutual
